Redefining Beauty Standards in Retail Environments

By Sheridan Markham

Sheridan Markham (M.F.A., interior design, 2020) is a Dean’s Fellow and a two-time joint winner (with Shelby Pogue) of the SCAD x Kravet Design Challenge. Markham’s personal and professional mission includes addressing the pernicious effects of social media on the self-image of young women, and proposing a retail environment where young women can embrace their most authentic selves. As a master’s candidate in interior design, she designed a speculative pop-up store for Gucci that would promote positive body image perception. The following article is adapted from ideas proposed by Markham in her master’s thesis at SCAD.

Mass media has taken a technology-driven turn in the past decade. Highly Visual Social Media (HVSM) apps, such as Instagram, Facebook, and YouTube continue to alter the way we perceive everyday life[1]. Some of the content shared portrays inaccurate female beauty and body standards, which are further perpetuated when praised in a digital community. These unrealistic ideals reinforce the potential for the “development and/or maintenance of body image disturbances” amongst female app users[2].

Negative body image perception due to mass media exposure can lead to decreased levels of self-esteem and self-worth, skewing how women perceive their bodies. Since body image perception is, “largely determined by social experience[s]”, it often reflects an individual’s interpretation of their physical appearance[3]. This can manifest in the form of unhealthy behaviors, such as anorexia, bulimia, binge eating, and body dysmorphia.

Retail environments possess the opportunity to reshape female beauty and body standards because of body-related information collected while shopping. This information can stem from design elements including mannequins, mirrors, lighting, graphic content, and displays.

The 5 Competencies, as outlined by The Body Positive organization, paired with theories and research findings drove the key touchpoints for this environment. The 5 Competencies are meant to boost self-esteem and body image perception. These ideals include cultivate self-love, declare authentic beauty, build community, practice intuitive self-care, and reclaim health[4]. With that said, the goal of this pop-up retail environment is to incorporate design elements that embody these five ideals, in order to encourage visitors to celebrate authenticity, reshape how social media is used, and embrace inclusivity.

The location for the pop-up was Milan, Italy. Italy is one of the countries in Europe that struggles the most with embracing body positivity and inclusivity. Decades of cultural norms, such as “la bella figura” (“the beautiful figure”), alongside objectification in digital and print formats set the stage for this retail environment to redefine how Italian women’s bodies are perceived. These standards, paired with the average time spent on social media in Italy (113 minutes per day), pinpointed Italy as the ideal candidate[5].

Considering body positivity is not as highly recognized in Italy, it was important to create an environment that would reinforce a powerful message in a short amount of time to maintain efficacy. A pop-up shop was the best course of action for this proposal because of its ability to “enhance brand perception” and “boost brand image”[6].

At the entry, customers are greeted by a concierge desk, where they are asked to create their profile. Upon entering their information, they are given a branded RFID bracelet, which will unlock a locker and personally greet them. After storing their belongings, they follow a pathway that guides them through the “authenticity exhibition.” This exhibition displays the materiality, process, and final product of a garment that was handcrafted to meet a customer’s preferences, which, in hindsight, is meant to represent the individuality each of us possess.

Continuing throughout the space, the personalization studio encourages customers to digitally design their own garment with a staff member, utilizing their RFID bracelet to tag which accessories they want to complete their look. After completing their custom piece, customers are encouraged to post their digital fashion sketch on social media with the hashtag #Gucciredefine. These photos then appear on the social media wall on the right-hand side of the space. In addition to the personalization studio, there is also a tailoring studio where customers will go if they decide they want their garment to be physically created.

As customers finish their journey throughout the space, they end up in the courtyard, which guides them in a spiral pathway towards the center. The center houses an area where visitors can take the outline of a body and make it their own. The work of art they create, based on color, text and form is meant to represent how they feel about certain aspects of their bodies and can be pinned up. Ultimately, this experience is meant to create a sense of community, celebrating the beauty of imperfection and the power of authenticity.

I dedicate this research to all young women. Embrace your imperfections and be fearlessly original. Sharing your vulnerabilities could be the guiding light for another person’s journey towards authenticity.

To view the rest of Sheridan’s project, go to https://www.sheridanmarkham.com/copy-of-the-hanok-hotel

Footnotes

[1] Benowitz-Fredericks, C., Garcia, K., Massey, M., Vasagar, B., & Borzekowski, D. (2012). Body image, eating disorders, and the relationship to adolescent media use. Pediatric Clinics of North America, 59(3), 693–704. Retrieved October 15, 2019, from https://jhu.pure.elsevier.com/en/publications/body-image-eating-disorders-and-the-relationship-to-adolescent-me-3

[2] Prieler, M. & Choi, J. (2014). Broadening the scope of social media effect research on body image concerns. Sex Roles, 71(11–12), 378–388. Retrieved March 16, 2020, from https://www.researchgate.net/publication/268815799_Broadening_the_Scope_of_Social_Media_Effect_Research_on_Body_Image_Concerns

[3] Tomas-Aragones, L. & Marron, S. (2016). Body image and body dysmorphic concerns. Acta Derm Venereologica, 96(217), 47–50. Retrieved November 1, 2019, from https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27283435/

[4] Sobczak, C. & Scott, E. (2013). The be body positive model. Retrieved February 2, 2020, from http://smedelstein.com/creative/bp/model.htm

[5] We Are Social & Hootsuite. (2019). Leading active social media platforms in Italy in 2018 [Graph]. In Statista. Retrieved September 27, 2019, from https://0-www-statista-com.library.scad.edu/statistics/550825/top-active-social-media-platforms-in-Italy

[6] Taube, J. & Warnaby, G. (2017). How brand interaction in pop-up shops influences consumers’ perceptions of luxury fashion retailers. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 21(3). Retrieved February 22, 2020, from https://www.researchgate.net/publication/317272501_How_brand_interaction_in_pop-up_shops_influences_consumers'_perceptions_of_luxury_fashion_retailers